Breeding advice for autosomal-recessive conditions
The table above provides guidance on breeding from your DNA-tested dog.
Recommended Boxer Health Testing Requirements from AKC:
Hip Evaluation
Elbow Evaluation
Thyroid Evaluation
ASSAS Cardio
Aortic Valve Disease
Boxer Cardiomyopathy
ARVC DNA Test
Degenerative Myelopathy DNA Test
NUTRITION
The Boxer should do well on a high-quality dog food, whether commercially manufactured or home-prepared with your veterinarian’s supervision and approval. Any diet should be appropriate to the dog’s age (puppy, adult, or senior). Some dogs are prone to getting overweight, so watch your dog’s calorie consumption and weight level. Treats can be an important aid in training, but giving too many can cause obesity. Learn about which human foods are safe for dogs, and which are not. Check with your vet if you have any concerns about your dog’s weight or diet. Clean, fresh water should be available at all times.
Best Food For Boxer Puppy: Quick Picks
#1. Royal Canin Boxer Puppy Dog Food [Editor’s Choice]
#2. Nutro Natural Choice Puppy Dog Food [Runner-Up]
#3. Purina One SmartBlend Puppy Food [Budget Friendly]
#4. Natural Balance Original Canned Dog Food [Wet Food]
#5. Purina Pro Plan Puppy Dog Food [For Sensitive Stomach & Skin]
#2. Nutro Natural Choice Puppy Dog Food [Runner-Up]
#3. Purina One SmartBlend Puppy Food [Budget Friendly]
#4. Natural Balance Original Canned Dog Food [Wet Food]
#5. Purina Pro Plan Puppy Dog Food [For Sensitive Stomach & Skin]
Top 5 Brands (Recommended by Veterinarians)
Purina (Pro Plan or One), Hill's, IAMS, Eukanuba, and Royal Canin Boxer Formula. These diets are formulated to contain appropriate amounts of protein, vitamins, and minerals.
Boxer Puppy Growth And Development: An Owner’s Guide
Your Boxer pup’s prime socialization period is from 3 to 12 weeks, peaking between 6 to 8 weeks. This timing gives enormous influence to the breeder: early stimulation can be protective but must be used with caution.
Socialization windows should be maximized to expose puppies to a wide variety of stimuli and experiences.
Fear periods can be managed with gentle support and the provision of opportunities for your pup to explore unfamiliar and threatening situations at her own pace.
Before you know it you will have an even-tempered, grown up Boxer on your hands.
A Note From Me (Boxer P)
Boxer P - AKC will expose their growth and development for the beginning of their lives (whelp to around 8 weeks) but it is also up to their new homes to continue their growth and development to keep your puppy socialized. Our puppies have been socialized from the beginning of their lives with my (Boxer P) family inside and outside on my property with cousins, uncles, and a few friends visiting... besides their vet visits (held in travel crate until vet seen, not on the floor at their visits).
They will be going to their new homes from being raised with a human family and friends ~ Also raised by their on-site parents (sire and dam) with their whole litter pack until around 8 weeks! Our puppies are allowed to go to their new homes after their final vet check for a clear of health and first vaccinations. The new families will receive a Record of Health in their AKC New Puppy Folders!
Bio Sensor/Early Neurological Stimulation for New Puppies
I use the Bio Sensor/Super Dog Program which is a series of early neurological stimulation exercises done from day two or three to day sixteen of the puppies lives.
The U.S. Military .canine program developed a method that still serves as a guide to what works. In an effort to improve the performance of dogs used for military purposes, a program called “Bio Sensor” was developed. Later, it became known to the public as the “Super Dog” Program. Based on years of research, the military learned that early neurological stimulation exercises could have important and lasting effects. Their studies confirmed that there are specific time periods early in life when neurological stimulation has optimum results.
The “Bio Sensor” program is concerned with early neurological stimulation in order to give the dog a superior advantage. It utilizes five exercises, which were designed to stimulate the neurological system. Each workout involves handling puppies once each day, one puppy at a time while performing a series of five exercises. The handler starts with one pup and stimulates it using each of the five exercises from beginning to end before starting with the next puppy.
Five benefits have been observed in dogs that were exposed to the Bio Sensor stimulation exercises. The benefits noted were:
Improved cardio vascular performance (heart rate).
Stronger heart beats
Stronger adrenal glands
More tolerance to stress and
Greater resistance to disease.
Stronger adrenal glands
More tolerance to stress and
Greater resistance to disease.
Stimulated puppies were found to be more active and more exploratory than non- stimulated puppies.
Secondary effects were noted regarding test performance. In simple problem solving tests using detours in a maze, non-stimulated puppies became extremely aroused, whined in distress a great deal, and made many errors.
Their stimulated litter mates were less disturbed by the test environment, were more calm in general, made fewer errors and gave only an occasional distress call.
Thank you Dr. Carmen Battaglia for publishing an article on this subject. Thanks to her article, many breeders have started implementing early Neurological stimulation in their breeding programs.
1. TACTILE STIMULATION – Holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle. 3 – 5 seconds.
2. HEAD HELD ERECT – Using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up), so that its head is directly above its tail. This is an upwards position. 3 – 5 seconds.
3. HEAD POINTED DOWN Holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward so that it is pointing towards the ground. 3 – 5 seconds.
4. SUPINE POSITION – Hold the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. The pup while on its back is allowed to sleep struggle. 3-5 seconds.
5. THERMAL STIMULATION – Use a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving. 3-5 seconds.
Dog Sounds - Desensitizing Sounds for Dogs, Cats and other animals
What is Desensitization?
Your dog will be exposed to many new sounds/experiences that may cause them fear or shyness. Think construction sites, horses, vacuums, etc.!
Desensitization is the simple act of changing that stimulus from something that causes fear, to something that has a positive association.
Desensitizing your dog or puppy to sounds before they happen in 'real life' will help your dog's confidence and help avoid fear in their life.
How to Desensitize Your Dog
The best way to learn how to desensitize your dog is by watching the video in this section and getting access to the sounds. Here is a quick overview
Step 1- Play a sound at a low volume.
Step 2- As you play the sound, give your dog a treat.
Step 3- Slowly repeat steps 1-2 until you can reach full volume. If your dog gets nervous/scared at any point, lower the volume and try again.
Here is the LINK for Sound Desensitizing for your puppy by Pupford!
Another helpful tool is this
Calm Pet - Desensitizing Sounds for Animals, Volume 1
CD on Amazon, if you have Amazon Music you can add to your play list... here's the LINK on Amazon.
Entire litters of puppies can be wiped out within 48 hours by the puppy killer parvo virus. This disease could be picked up unknowingly by people in a school yard, a park, or on a sidewalk, and this is only one disease. We cannot risk exposing our dogs and your puppy to diseases that could destroy them. Your puppy is not the only puppy.
Remember Pick Up Day Requirements!
6 Common Illnesses to Watch for in Puppies
Your puppy is brand new and you want to protect him. The best thing you can do is to feed him a healthy, balanced diet, says Dr. Jim Dobies, a veterinarian with South Point Pet Hospital in Charlotte, N.C., and a member of the North Carolina Veterinary Medical Association.
“If you do, you’re giving your puppy’s immune system the best chance to fight off infection, he says. “He is in better shape to fight off illness and recover.”
But you can’t protect your baby pooch from everything. Here are six common illnesses he could catch in his first year of life.
1. Parvovirus (Parvo)
This highly contagious canine illness attacks puppies aged between 12 weeks and up to 3 years. Transmitted through bodily secretions and unvaccinated dogs, canine parvovirus is easily passed on, though most dogs are vaccinated against it starting at six to eight weeks, then again every three weeks until they are four months old (or until your veterinarian recommends).
Symptoms: A CPV infection (parvo) in dogs starts with a fever, and at this point puppies are probably very contagious (to other dogs, not humans). “After a few days, they will experience vomiting and bloody diarrhea and become dehydrated and weak,” says Dr. Dobies.
Treatment: Vaccinate against parvovirus! If you haven’t, hospitalization is the best route, where your puppy will be given IV fluids and sometimes antibiotics to prevent sepsis, which can be fatal.
Recovery time: Three to seven days. Puppies with parvo are usually hospitalized for three to four days then go home with medications.
2. Distemper
The vaccination against canine distemper virus is quite effective. The first vaccination takes place at six to eight weeks, and again after 9 weeks, “and when puppies have had one or two vaccines they are immune,” says Dr. Dobies. Consult your veterinarian for the best course of action for your dog concerning the distemper vaccine.
Symptoms: “This can really be an ugly disease,” he says. It shows in two ways: Initially distemper in dogs typically appears as an upper respiratory disease with sneezing and eye discharge. Then it can develop into pneumonia or can lead to neurological problems such as a fatal encephalopathy (brain damage).
Distemper in dogs is frequently misdiagnosed because owners think their puppy has a cold “so by the time we see them they have tons of discharge from their nose and eyes and have high fever. They are also depressed,” Dr. Dobies says.
Treatment: Seek medical attention for distemper in dogs. This usually involves inpatient supportive care.
Recovery time: It can take weeks to recover from canine distemper and pets usually go home from the hospital with respiratory medications.
The bad news about canine distemper is if your puppy survives it, the disease can lie dormant and break out again when she’s older. At that point she has an even worse prognosis because the disease can lead to neurological problems such as seizures.
3. Kennel Cough
Bacterial infection or canine parainfluenza viruses, both of which are airborne, cause kennel cough in dogs — also known as infectious tracheobronchitis. “The disease name is a misnomer,” says Dr. Dobies, “because animals that aren’t in kennels can —and do — contract it.” Puppies can be vaccinated against kennel cough starting at six to eight weeks, and then every six to 12 months after that, though the vaccine doesn’t necessarily protect against the disease, but does lead to milder symptoms.
Symptoms: Kennel cough starts with lethargy, decreased appetite and fever, then puppies develop a deep, often productive, cough. If untreated, kennel cough can lead to pneumonia.
Treatment: If you note any unusual coughing from your puppy “…it’s best to get him checked out to make sure he’s not developing pneumonia,” says Dr. Dobies.
Recovery time: Kennel cough usually runs its course in 10 to 14 days.
4. Adenovirus
Adenovirus in dogs causes infectious canine hepatitis, but Dr. Dobies says it’s rarely seen these days because of the efficacy of vaccines. Often the adenovirus vaccine is given with the canine distemper vaccine, though you may want to ask your veterinarian about canine adenovirus type-1 and canine adenovirus type-2.
Symptoms: It’s really difficult to know if your dog has adenovirus, but it typically starts with gastrointestinal problems like vomiting and diarrhea and can develop into jaundice.
Treatment: Inpatient fluid therapy and nutritional support may be required. Your doctor will prescribe antibiotics and/or fluid reducers as necessary.
5. Leptospirosis
This bacterial disease can affect the kidneys and the liver and is transmitted through contaminated water and infected urine. Your puppy can be vaccinated against leptospirosis at 10 to 12 weeks, then again at 13 to 15 weeks. Be aware that not all clinics vaccinate for leptospirosis, so ask your veterinarian if it's appropriate for your puppy.
Symptoms: Symptoms of leptospirosis are flu-like: Vomiting and/or fever and/or lethargy, but they’re very vague to being with, says Dr. Dobies.
Treatment: Antibiotics
Recovery time: Depending on the severity of the infection, an antibiotic course can last four weeks or more.
6. Vomiting (and Diarrhea)
If your puppy’s suffering from either of these nasties, the first thing to rule out is intestinal parasites. If these are not the cause vomiting/diarrhea, your pooch has probably just eaten or licked something he shouldn’t have. “Nine times out of 10 what they’ve consumed comes back out again,” says Dr. Dobies. Other causes could be one of the diseases listed above.
Treatment: Continue to offer water, and provide food if your puppy asks for it but that’s less essential than keeping them hydrated. After 12 hours (vomiting) or 24 hours (diarrhea), take your dog to your veterinarian if he’s not getting better. Your veterinarian can provide you with a therapeutic bland diet to help your puppy feel better.
Recovery time: Your puppy should recover from vomiting or diarrhea that is not related to a parasite within 12 to 24 hours.
